2024年亚星龙虎斗
CHANEL 2023/24的高等手工坊系列
CHANEL 2023/24的高等手工坊系列于2023年12月7日在英国曼彻斯特告成发布。有别于品牌的其他大秀，高等手工坊系列可谓CHANEL动作百大哥字号的一张明显王牌。
CHANEL 2023/24的高等手工坊系列
高等手工坊系列（The Métiers d’Art collection）浓缩了CHANEL旗下工坊设置，自2002年起每一年CHANEL皆会在寰球采用一座城市来举办这一盛事，借此奖赏工匠们超卓的工艺与孝顺，旨在体现CHANEL的品牌文化与法国挥霍工艺的好意思好愿景，可见这一格外的系列于CHANEL繁密大秀中的地位之重，也因此在举办地址上，CHANEL很细心退换品牌和当地文化的关联性，在往年，纽约、罗马、达喀尔、萨尔茨堡、达拉斯、上海等外洋城市皆参与过高等手工坊系列的发布。而2023年，CHANEL将高等手工坊系列带回到了英国，不外发布会安排在英国的曼彻斯特，而非更闻明的伦敦。这一音问甫一公开就让外界感到偶而，骇怪进度不亚于2012年的选址苏格兰的林利念念哥。
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皇冠现金在线开户引发创作力量的曼彻斯特
Jamie Hawkesworth镜头下的曼彻斯特
据消息人士透露，在最近的一次比赛中，曼彻斯特城的球星斯特林在场上突然发生了身体不适的情况，随后被紧急送往医院治疗。虽然斯特林的团队方面并没有透露他具体的身体状况，但是球迷们都对他的健康十分担心，并希望他能够尽快康复。同时，球迷们也为他加油，期待他能够在接下来的比赛中继续为球队贡献力量。皇冠体育hg86a
曼彻斯特的前锋印象相较伦敦来看，在外洋上存在感不高，当地培养出贝克汉姆等大牌球星的足球俱乐部比英伦立场的想象要来得径直。但动作英国第二大富贵皆市，曼彻斯特的流行产业并不比伦敦失态，比如领悟的音乐文化过火催生的系列艺术创作，还有另一大被淡忘许久的身份：“棉花之皆”。两百多年前，这里出生了世界上最早的近代棉纺织大工业，是工业创新起先地，因此在很长一段时候里，曼彻斯特是英国最围聚前锋产业泉源的中心。
Jamie Hawkesworth镜头下的CHANEL
历程逾百年的历史，曼彻斯特已非狄更斯笔下那充满履行挖苦的工业城市，也非上世纪80年代孤苦乐队们嘶吼下的悲不雅印象，如今这里发展出“早餐要饮香槟酒”的闲情逸致和实时享乐的糊口立场，这是变成曼彻斯特创意活力的要津。名义轻松不羁的曼彻斯特看似和CHANEL塑造的奢华世界收支甚远，但某种进度上这两者其实存在共性：一方最早兑现当代工业化从而变成新糊口方式，一方为女性筹算全新的糊口状况、目田服装握住。这两者联结的构念念从一变成便带有超高期待值，于前锋界来看这种天然产生的营销力无疑充满诱导。
Jamie Hawkesworth镜头下的CHANEL
2024欧洲杯赛制手抓如斯上风，CHANEL的支吾也格出门色。创意总监Virginie Viard贯注索求了曼彻斯特的流行音乐基因，并委派导演、品牌形象大使Sofia Coppola创作拼贴立场的短片，以明快纯的确韵律展现这座城市的创意活力。影片不仅呈现了这位服装筹算师在英国的历史影像，还以数十幅画面回首了曼彻斯特在音乐、体裁、建筑与畅通等品牌重心关怀领域的先锋影响力。随同曼彻斯特闻明乐队New Order的名作“Blue Monday”的节拍下，同期展示英国照相师Jamie Hawkesworth为本次系列格外创作的彩色照相作品，他以半记载片的拍摄形势记叙了一群糊口在曼彻斯特的年青东谈主若何演绎最新的高等手工坊系列。
玄色T恤连衣裙饰以刺绣徽章、良晴天鹅绒jersey至意面料畅通衫配以点缀斜纹软呢饰带的褶裥胸饰、多色的Lesage刺绣软呢外衣，交汇丹宁面料或粉色调圈圈纱线搭配同色系鸭舌帽、粉彩色调至意作品与醒目良好细节的波普红、芥末黄与淡紫色套装相映生辉。“对我来说，曼彻斯特是名副其实的音乐之城2024年亚星龙虎斗，它贮蓄着引发创作的力量。”Virginie Viard共享了打造这一系列创意造型的灵感。曼彻斯特的亚文化街头气味在她的巧手退换下呈现一种绝不突兀的和谐节拍，正如这里的多元文化般，每一种皆能在包容的曼彻斯特找到私有的一派社群寰球。
CHANEL 2023/24的高等手工坊系列发布现场
除了精彩的预报片除外，还有本次看点满满的秀场筹算。本次曼彻斯特之行安排在当地北角的托马斯街，品牌在这个曾被《时间周刊》评比为“世界上最酷的社区之一”的地点搭建起透明的避讳屋顶，大秀举办本日赶巧是漆黑绵绵之日，这一秀场设立可谓很曼彻斯特了。不少东谈主命令这次发布限度后应该保留这处透明屋顶以造福当地东谈主，支吾曼彻斯特长年多雨的天气，而CHANEL的这一滑动也将会对当地产生真切的积极影响，为其日益兴起的挥霍蹧跶场景增添另一层更在地化的理性效应。
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CHANEL 2023/24的高等手工坊系列部分造型
Virginie Viard为最新的高等手工坊系列注入丰富的60年代流行元素，也对品牌标志性的斜纹软呢特色进行了创新解读。CHANEL的前锋总裁Bruno Pavlovsky谈及关联灵感时清晰香奈儿女士与斜纹软呢的人缘恰是从英国运转的，她曾从那时的恋东谈主the Duke of Westminster的伊顿庄园里借穿过斜纹软呢夹克，并有趣好上了这种面料，将其带回巴黎。在上世纪50年代，香奈儿用贝雷帽搭配西服套装和平底玛丽珍鞋的造型，将斜纹软呢的魔力执行至寰球，这一面料也成为品牌中枢象征元素之一。
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CHANEL 2023/24的高等手工坊系列部分造型特写
不外，Virginie Viard不想在经典上炒冷饭，“诚然斜纹软呢依旧是这个系列的中枢主题，我记忆了好多对于香奈儿女士的故事，但我不想重叠她身披西敏公爵外衣的造型。反倒是她赋予斜纹软呢纷呈色调的力量带给我好多启示，我想络续这种性情，为它们注入崭新和流行气味。”而曼彻斯特多元的流行文化布景给Virginie Viard这次的创作准备了近乎竣工的铺垫。当发布会拉开帷幕时，系列中醒见识波普色和谐亮眼的包饰在陡然拨动了现场不雅众的心扉共识。Virginie Viard并莫得直白地强调所谓的音乐立场，而所以鲑鱼粉、南瓜橘、苹果绿、芥末黄、天外蓝、正红与锈红色等缤纷多彩的视觉渲染上世纪中期的流行诗意。
CHANEL 2023/24的高等手工坊系列部分造型特写
筹算细节上，外衣下摆的链条、对比色的内衬面料、多重的绗缝修饰等处罚令服装上的组合裁片愈加步履自由，充满当代气味的同期更请安了香奈儿女士的精工剪裁。裙腰所用面料与外衣和大衣的内衬相呼应，在视野上取得络续成果。而裹身裙、戈黛迷你裙、百慕大短裤、衬衫与大衣式连衣裙等单品均以斜纹软呢设得的兰羊绒至意与关联面料打造，飘溢别致的英伦风情。剪裁上也格外贴称身型，半身裙采用稍微低腰的筹算。
《博格》（1976）是海蒂·布赫第一件“剥皮”作品，日前正在北京红砖美术馆展出。
CHANEL 2023/24的高等手工坊系列部分造型特写
le19M大楼中的高等手工匠东谈主们全心制作的褶裥、羽饰与刺绣以及帽子和珠宝钮扣等细节无疑是整个这个词系列中最勾东谈主心的部分，天然别致的印花比如茶壶、黑胶唱片与可儿的花朵图案等亦然当中灵动的点缀，与牛仔裤、皮革、至意娃娃裙寝衣与露肩连衣裙等共同构成带有浓厚曼彻斯特风情的完整系列。
周迅&桂纶镁
在本次CHANEL的曼彻斯特秀场中，咱们还看到老到的周迅和桂纶镁的倩影。早于秀前一晚周迅还不雅看了曼联球赛，实地体验了曼彻斯特的轻松糊口和流行文化氛围。在开秀当晚，周迅身着CHANEL高等定制系列的斜纹软呢套装搭配亮片刺绣挎包和首饰，与桂纶镁相谈甚欢，现场状况大好，看得出二东谈主此趟曼彻斯特之旅感受可以。
苏格兰摇滚乐队Primal Scream的献艺现场
秀后，CHANEL还于当地的二级保护建筑的Victoria Baths举办了独家的after-party，该时势由品牌的尊贵嘉宾倾城缓助。而苏格兰摇滚乐队Primal Scream的献艺充分调高了整个这个词行为的摇滚脑怒，为现场嘉宾留住记起的夜晚。
Virginie Viard谢幕
财富从当今各方的评价看来，CHANEL这次的曼彻斯特大秀收成了大批招供。曾筹算了据说乐队Joy Division的专辑封面的英国平面筹算师Peter Saville在秀前预热时候就欷歔谈，CHANEL这次行程将突显曼彻斯特在足球领域除外的全新外洋形象，是双赢的押注。“It’s good for Chanel and it’s good for Manchester.”其实纵不雅CHANEL多年的Métiers d’Art大秀，得到如斯收效是在预感之中的。
在善变确当下前锋环境，高等手工坊系列幕后所提议的价值不雅值得试吃。
除了是对600多位手工艺东谈主行状心血的奖赏和难懂的请安，在行为选址上也体现了新时间下去中心化的民主趋势与多元对等的期待愿景。向来带有浓厚阶级清晰的挥霍牌在时间争议之下要想对传统法例进行校正，冲突既有圈层自得的局限是获取更多市集好感，兑现存效永远运营的要津。而CHANEL勇于迈出隔离传统前锋城市的一步，多年来在各地深度探寻发掘拓展品牌文化可能性的作念法可谓展现了一家百年品牌朋友知彼的方法。下一座前锋新皆会是那边？我寡言在CHANEL 2024年的时装秀日期上作念了请示象征。
撰文：KIKO
裁剪：周杨
排版：功臣
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